Hyggeligt (hoo-ga-leet). It's supposedly untranslatable and exclusively Danish. The closest that comes to describing it is: warm, cozy, enjoying time with family, surrounding yourself with good tidings. A hyggeligt atmosphere is one that consists of candles, good company, and varm chokolade. It's a tingly feeling in your stomach that signals contentment and satisfaction. Regularly my host family and I watch movies in candle light while drinking tea, this is hyggeligt. Wearing my oversized Nordic pullover sweater in the dim light of my room while writing a blog is hyggeligt. It's taken me awhile to wrap my head around the concept, but I think after two months, I'm finally getting it.
It's unbelievable two months have passed. Two more to go. But more importantly, two are gone. And in those two months I've acquired a good amount of knowledge about Denmark. I can tell you all the stops from my home to school on the E train: Hundige, Ishøj, Ny Eleberj, Sjælør, Sydhavn, Dybbølsbro, København H, Vesterport, Nørreport. I can explain how to get to Christiania or to Frue Plads. I know where to buy inexpensive coffee for 10 DKK (even though I don't drink coffee) and that the Living Room on the street over from Vestergade has the best chai lattes but is a bit pricey and that Riccos might be a better place to go. Istanbul Pizza has the cheapest slices for only 12 DKK where as at 7-11 it might be 25. I know how to navigate to the canal Nyhavn and the best spot to eat lunch if it's sunny out. I've learned that tucking your jeans into your socks is not goofy looking but actually practical to keep your ankles warm. And bringing a rain coat is important, because no where does the weather fluctuate like Copenhagen. Also, when on the train, don't get discouraged if it's somewhat silent and no one says "bless you" (or the Danish version) when you sneeze, even if you do it fifteen times. I know that coins are valuable (up to 20 DKK) and if you hear one drop, keep your eyes pealed and get on your hands and knees to search (every kroner counts). I've realized not to walk in the bike lane because I've witnessed people get run over. And although I know all that, there's still so much to learn in my two remaining months.
By no means am I Danish, but I'm not a tourist either. It's a funny concept, being stuck in the middle, not really belonging to either category. I understand Denmark more so than a tourist and I don't require a map. I have a valid train pass and a Danish social security card, but I still identify as American. It's complex, being a student abroad. It's a combination of belonging and wandering and figuring out where I fit. I'm certainly more aware than a traveler visiting for a week, but again, I'm obviously not Danish. This floating in between is tiresome at times but then it's invigorating at times. I feel unique in Denmark although there are many other students in the same position. I still am different than the vast majority of people on the island of Zealand; I'm not blonde, I don't speak Danish, and I like peanut butter (Danes don't) and hate licorice (Danes do). I'm temporary here but the impression Denmark will leave on me is permanent.
Other students from my school are preparing to go abroad in the spring semester. Ridiculously enough I find myself jealous of them. I know the excitement of boarding a plane and arriving in a new and entirely different country. I know what the adjustment is like; difficult at times but well worth it. I'm aware of the small talk with students from other schools and what it's like to dive into a new place and get lost on streets with names you can't pronounce. I know first hand what it's like to sink yourself deep into a culture so much that it's overwhelming but wonderful at the same time. Like I said, I have two months left and two months passed.
