Berlin, Germany: November 10-13
The final stop: Berlin. Before arriving in Berlin, I had a gut feeling that there was something about it I would love. And I was correct. When I stepped off the plane it felt almost instant that I fell head over heels in love with Berlin. It's hard to capture, but it was apparent that both my mom and I felt this way about Berlin. Maybe it was the hospitality of our pension or the patrons in the street, maybe it was the history that busted up from even the sidewalks, or maybe it was the amazing food (not German food though). Whatever it was, Berlin captured me only after a few short days.
We purchased transportation cards because unlike many of the other cities, things in Berlin seemed to be a little more spread out across the grid. We didn't do this begrudgingly-- our feet needed the rest. On the first night we ate at a restaurant called "Santa Maria" which was suggested to us by our friendly pension manager. Santa Maria proved to be not only the best food we had on the entire trip (who knew Berlin would be the place for that?) but also the most fairly priced. For under 12 euro each we received bread, soup, a main course, dessert or tea, and kind service (who translated the menu for us since we unfortunately don't read German).
After we were rejuvenated by the excellent meal and cozy atmosphere of the restaurant, we took the double decker bus (which we would end up relying heavily on while traveling in Berlin) to Alexanderplatz, a busy shopping center. Alexanderplatz is a cosmopolitan and bustling area with modern stores, including a giant department store that my mom and I found warmth inside (and also a giant candy wall). After wandering around Alexanderplatz we then took the heated bus to the Reichstag. The Reichstag is the current parliament building and was so before Hitler's Nazi occupation in Germany. Although Hitler didn't actually use the building, the Nazis took it over when the Third Reich controlled Germany. From the pictures inside the building its possible to see the terrible condition the building was in after World War II-- the walls were crumbling from nearby explosions and remains of the once grand building were scattered throughout the street. Some time after the end of the Cold War the Reichstag was redone and now represents the perseverance of the German people as it stands strongly in Berlin. From the Reichstag building atop the dome there is also a view of Berlin that is indescribable when seen at night.
After taking American history an uncountable amount of times in school (it sometimes seems that is the only history we learn about) I was a little aware about the Cold War but no
where near an expert. I badgered my mom for answers because she had lived through it and I obviously had not since I was born just shy of a month before the Berlin wall came down. But it seems that the Cold War and what happened in Berlin is both largely unknown and very complicated. At the Check Point Charlie museum (a museum located where the American occupation boarder met the Communist occupation boarder-- a place where many tried to escape from the communist side to the other) I read over accounts from the oppression that the German people were forced into and their many attempts of escapes from the East to the West. But still there is so much information I don't know and don't understand. Not only do I not comprehend, but I can't even imagine. The idea of putting up a wall to divide a city, each claimed by different countries, seems almost childish and primal (almost like siblings dividing up a room and saying this is mine and that is your's). I don't really get it. But my eyes were opened to say the least while I was at the museum. I had no idea that Germans had to go to such extreme lengths to reach freedom in the West. I can only account a few of the stories-- the ones that really stuck out to me-- but there were so many written on the walls that it practically covered floor to ceiling. Creative ideas were formulated in those desperate times, such as building compartments inside small vehicles so that a person could barely squeeze into to cross the boarder, or hollowing out surfboards, or building a hot air balloon. The clever maneuvers were somewhat successful but there were still those who suffered on the other side. And it's hard to believe that it was a mere twenty-one years ago that this was happening. It hasn't even been a lifetime yet but it seems so distant.We strolled casually to the Berlin wall (it's odd to put casually and Berlin wall in one sentence because there is absolutely nothing "casual" about the wall). The remains loom over the sidewalk
and it's only a small section. It's unbelievable that so much occurred at this wall-- so much that I don't even know about. People died trying to get across. A wall is a perfect representation for the divide of the country. It was a barrier of freedom to many and now it stands as a reminder that easily it could all change again. Now more than ever I realize how fortunate I am to have never experienced oppression.After the wall we visited the Jewish Museum. The museum is different than most and one would expect it to largely be about the Holocaust. Yet the museum is mostly comprised of Jewish history dating back to the 1300s. There is a portion of the museum that reflects upon the Holocaust and includes items and trinkets that were stolen from the Jewish people. The construction and execution of the Holocaust section is intriguing. It's similar to the Holocaust museum in Washington D.C. Along the walls are big bold names of cities in Europe and there are a few dark windows that you have to get very close to the glass to see the contents. Inside there is a small description of the items; pieces recovered from Jewish families of the Holocaust, letters, pictures, and other what would be meaningless articles. The rest of the museum, as I said, is dedicated to the history of the Jewish people. I enjoyed walking through it because it discussed other attributes of Jeudiasm than the persecution of the Holocaust.
It's difficult to pinpoint and I could go on for hours discussing the atmosphere of Berlin in reference to not only World War II but also the Cold War and the Soviet occupation. One observation was that Germans are somewhat hesitant to talk about the Nazi occupation-- which is understandable, after the war many were ashamed of Germany and it took years to recuperate. But the Germans seem to be open about the Soviet occupation of Germany because then it was Germans who were oppressed. It's a complex history that Germany has and I can understand why it raises many questions. But to describe it best I would say there is an electricity, an energy in Berlin and Germany that can't be matched. It's obvious that there is something unique about Germany-- they survived a lot of turmoil either by some of their citizens doing or by the control of others, but they made it through and have proven that they are a strong nation full of life, vibrancy, and brilliant minds.
That night we again visited Alexanderplatz as it started to drizzle. We carried our umbre
llas with us although mine was broken and somewhat of a hazard (I borrowed it from the pension) and we stopped in a few shops. One book shop we visited was "Berlin Story," one which Rick Steve's recommended. We ate dinner at a somewhat modest chain restaurant and again had excellent food.On the second and final full day in Berlin we visited the Brandenburg gate with the Goddess of Victory standing strongly at the top. Near the gate there is a Room of Silence where visitors can sit quietly to meditate on the themes of peace, equality, and other heavy material. It is a fitting room for this purpose because it is in the shadow of the Brandenburg gate.
The very new Holocaust memorial (built in 2005) is near the gate. The memorial is, like much of Berlin's displays from World War II, different than the usual Holocaust memorial that captures the atrocity through millions of names etched, quotes about oppression, or emaciated figures of stone. Instead the memorial in Berlin is comprised of about two thousand tall standing planks in varying sizes in rows. The stone walk way dips up and down to create the illusion of great hills and the vertical planks add to this. This memorial almost says more than the others I've seen. It doesn't have any names or pictures or quotes. It is more symbolic. What I see is the dark and uncertain future that effected everyone in the world-- not only those who perished. It was a worldwide, human race, war that involved everyone, even future generations. At the end of the each row though, through the falls and rises, there is an end that can be seen. A small light peering through the maze like structure. I found the memorial to be very profound and is probably one of my favorite parts of Berlin.
We went to the world-class aquarium for a more light-
hearted afternoon. There was the typical jelly fish, exotic fish, reptiles, insects, and other sea creatures. I was a bit disappointed that there were no sharks as they are the kings and queens of the sea. But still, the aquarium was a nice side trip for me and my mom. It was almost like being a child again and I appreciate that because those days are quickly fading.That night we dined at Santa Maria again. And again it was delicious. With full and satisfied bellies we went into the heart of Berlin one more time to ride to the top of the T.V tower. From the hundreds of meters above the city we could marvel at the city. As I stood up top I thought about all those who had walked the streets and all those who had wished to be anywhere else-- the Jews who were murdered and persecuted, the Germans on the East side who unfairly were thrown into an oppression a lot of the world isn't fully aware of. I thought about the evil men, Hitler and his accomplices, the power thirsty Nazis, who roamed those streets. But now those are mere memories for a select few and with time, they will somehow cease to exist and it will only be what is written down in a history books or diaries. And of course the wounds will never be completely healed, but with time there will hopefully be an ease of the painful recollections.
The next morning, Saturday, I sadly said goodbye to Berlin but I hope to someday return. We landed in Copenhagen and although I was upset our trip was over, it was nice to be back with my host family. My mom and I went to Stroget and I showed her Nyhavn, the harbor. In the time that we were away, Denmark prepared Christmas. Nyhavn was decorated with lights and small, warm shopping huts along the canal. It felt hygge being back, bundled up in our coats and enjoying the city of Copenhagen. I do wish I had more time with my mom in Copenhagen because although it may not be a large tourist city, it still has a lot to offer.
On Sunday my mom departed for America. It was difficult watching her get in line at the check out counter knowing I would not be following her. Of course soon enough I will be. The next morning it was odd being without my mom, it was almost an empty feeling. Luckily it won't be too long until I'm back home in Baltimore. But I had a wonderful time exploring Europe with her. We saw more than I can account for and of course I am more thankful than I could possibly show. In total we saw five countries: Denmark, Czech Republic, Austria, Italy, and Germany in only a matter of seventeen days!
I know I said I'd keep my blogs about our trip short, but I couldn't help myself. It was a wonderful adventure and I simply couldn't cut anything out. Now it's back to semi-reality in Copenhagen and then in only a few short weeks its back to actual reality. It's hard to believe the time is almost over. I have to make the last few weeks count.
